Saturday, June 30, 2007

Amsterdam

So everyone (well, mostly potheads and prostitution afficiandos) say "You've got to go to Amsterdam, man. You can smoke marijuana out of a mushroom while being whipped by a leather-clad dominatrix." Well, I don't smoke marijuana, I don't do mushrooms, and I don't have sex, so I think I may have missed out on the full Amsterdam experience. Nevertheless, travelling to the city was a remarkable experience.

Amsterdam is a bit of a train ride from Brussels so I spent most of the morning reading on the train and gazing out the window. (In 30 minutes, I saw more sources of alternative energy in the Netherlands countryside than a lifetime in the States.) After arriving; the first thing I noticed was the flood of bicycles in the city. The train station has a parking lot for them! It is completely unlike the U.S., but I attribute this more to the physical layout of our country than to our wanton laziness and spectacular obesity. Like a true pervy American male, I made a bee-line for the Red Light District. Besides the nude beach at Robert Moses State Park, this may be the least sexy place in the entire world. I imagined gorgeous women pressing themselves against the windows, beckoning me for a snog. The reality: very ugly, very fat, very disinterested women slumped in a folding chair completely indifferent to my presence. One harlot, chatting on her cellphone in tarp-sized lingerie, looked in my general direction when I passed, but that was the closest I came to being solicited. Granted, it was the 11am shift on a Saturday, but Amsterdam's hypersexual image was still largely deflated. The wares being sold by creepy merchants weren't sexy, either. I'm really not tempted to buy a silicone replica of a woman's genitals just because a middle-aged Middle Eastern man says "It's just like the real thing!" I'll pass.

On the other hand; the drugs in Amsterdam of the finest quality. I do not have any moral opposition to marijuana, and have actually tried the banned substance on occasion, so my abstinence on this trip was based more on practical concerns. I begin my new job at the Port Authority in less than a month and I don't want to do anything that would jeaporidize (no chance I spelled that correctly) that beautiful, beautiful salary. But, I must say, the puffs of smoke coming from the cafés smelled delicious and I was seriously tempted to roll a joint and contemplate my arm. Mushrooms were also tempting, and I had read up on the subject before going to Amsterdam, but the idea of tripping alone in a foreign city was about as appealing as the prostitutes in the Red Light District, which is to say, very, very tempting.

The effects of drugs on a person were readily apparent as I meandered dozn the main drag (no pun intended) in Amsterdam. A British guy, about my age, was hanging out a hotel window, speaking in tongues and covered in blood. He was obviously tripping, and I watched in astonishment as firemen inflated a huge cushion (think The Blob from the Ben Stiller classic, Heavyweights) and then used the ladder from the firetruck to barricade our refined British gentleman in his hotel room, preventing the much-anticipated plummet to his death. Have you ever seen a guy jump from a building? Have you ever seen a guy jump from a building on weeeeed? Mindblowing.

Lunch time. More later.

Brussels Part Two

I'll begin with two apologies. First, for the long time in between posts. Second, I am using a Belgian keyboard, which is slightly different than an American one, so this post may contain more than a few typographical errors.

Where do I begin? I am at the De Crop's home, resting after a long week studying lobbying in the European Union. As I mentioned earlier, our group has met with some very powerful players--and to add to that list, we spoke with a member of the European Parliament, Bill Newton Dunn; the public affairs representative for Microsoft in Europe; and a real-life tobacco lobbyist who must unfortunately remain nameless. (Direct quote: The only addiction that is evil is the government's addiction to the excise tax on cigarettes.) I won't bore anyone with the minutiae of our meetings, but I will discuss some conclusions I've drawn about the European Union.

First, contrary to the criticisms by the popular media and the Euro-skeptics, the EU is undoubtedly successful and will continue to rise in power this century. The quabbles and disagreements that came to the forefront last week in Brussels are an inherent part of the institution, and we should remember that the continent was at war 60 years ago, and marred by Communism for the latter half of the 20th century. The EU is not perfect, but neither is the American system of government, and the bold experiment to meld together 27 disparate nations for the common good is one that will be remembered in history.

Second, the lobbying apparatus in the EU is not better or worse (from an ethical standpoint) than the United States, it is merely different. In the U.S. lobbyist money plays a far greater role in influencing Congress and parts of the executive branch, however $$ does not tell the whole story. Constituent pressure, demonstrated through the popular election of representatives and Senators, plays an important role in influencing the government. This leverage is essential to lobbying in the U.S. and determines the tactics used and the targets selected. This leverage is largely missing in the EU and leads to a very different type of lobbying. Because members of the European Commission and the Parliament are often unanswerable to the public (because of apathy, the democratic deficit and bare-bones media coverage) many in the EU do not react to the same stimulants which drive members of Congress. Lobbying in the EU relies far more on information and education than on re-election financing and arm-twisting.

This seems like a good thing, but it is coupled with a very apparent shortcoming in the EU's lobbying apparatus. There is no registry for lobbyists in Brussels. This means that all information about lobbyists is not readily available to the public. (This reality makes our research here very, very difficult.) European citizens do not know much is being spent on lobbying efforts in Brussels, or even for who and what is money being spent. The system in the U.S. is admittedly imperfect, as the Abramoff scandal shows, but we are farther along in identifying illegal and unethical lobbying tactics than the Europeans. There have been no Abramoff-type scandals in the EU; is this because lobbying is cleaner in the EU, as all the lobbyists we met with claim, or are there no mechanisms to identify and deal with perpetrators? This is a question our research aims to answer, but I do not think an answer will be forthcoming.

Finally, I believe that trans-atlanticism, (the trade policy,not the Death Cab album) is embraced, obviously, by multi-national corporations like GE, but is not tolerated by politicians in the U.S. and Europe, and is especially loathed by citiens on both continents. Harmonization of standards and improved trade policies are beneficial to both of us in the long run, but trans-atlanticism is not without its hardships. Politicians and the public are unwilling or unable to see the big picture (mainly that India and China will loom even larger 50 years from now), but a firm, steady economic partnership with Europe is essential to the economic success of the U.S. this century.

I'm sure this topic isn't as fun to read about as my debauched nights in Brussels, but I think it's important to show that my trip does have an academic purpose and that my classmates and I are peering through the clouds of our hangovers and to make some important insights about the relationship between the U.S. and the EU.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Brussels Part Two

Greetings from Brussels! I don't have much time to write, as I am on break from a seminar on lobbying at the European Union, but I wanted to publish a quick update on what's been going on. The seminar, the European Public Affairs and Advocacy Institute (EPAAI), is going very well. We've met with representatives from the European Union, Pfizer, the Financial Times, NATO, and a ton of other organizations involved in lobbying in Brussels. Their insights are helping me develop a thesis for my independent study, which contrasts lobbying efforts in the U.S. and the EU, with a focus on drug safety.

EPAAI is enjoyable on another level as well. Many of my friends from graduate school, with whom I have spent hours and hours poring over material, studying for exams and preparing briefings, are here, and we are taking advantage of the Brussels nightlife. Last night, we spent 4 hours at a small tavern not far from the Gran Place, and drank beer that isn't usually available at the touristy bars around town. With our limited French, and sophisticated gesticulating techniques, we were able to converse with the bar tender about his favorite types of Belgian beer. The cultural barrier, however, did arise when I followed him into the kitchen to pursue the topic further.

I am returning to our seminar so I will have to fill you all in on some more details (and bawdier anecdotes) a little later. I still must cover a trip to Amsterdam and a night of barhopping in Brussels (all within 24 hours) as well as my reflections on the city of Brussels. I hope everyone is well and I miss you all.

Friday, June 22, 2007

First Photos - Conor in Brussels

Kyle Taylor (friend of maria & conor and host extraordinnaire), Clemence De Crop, Conor, Phillipe

blatantly stolen from: http://www.flickr.com/people/kyletaylor/

Brussels Part One

My baggage debacle aside, Brussels has been a great trip thus far. One Day One, Kyle Taylor and Anne De Crop met me at the airport. Kyle stayed with the De Crop's when he studied in Brussels a few years ago, and visits them every so often. Coincidentally, he was in Brussels to meet me. Anne is married to Marc, a banker, and they have two daughters, Clemence and Astrid. Their home is absolutely beautiful. It is a row house in a great neighborhood and is 5 floors with beautiful architecture and handsomely decorated. The De Crops are currently co-habiting with a house painter who pads around all day using the tiniest of brushes on the largest of surfaces.

After dropping my things at home and showering, Kyle took me on a tour of the city. We hit all the essentials, including Mannekin Pis (I will upload a picture later) a statue of a nude boy urinating. Legend has it that the little boy saved Brussels from a great fire using only his penis and a deftly aimed stream of urine. After a quick nap, (I awoke shouting "Those are false accusations" to Kyle), we met Clemence and her boyfriend Phillipe for some Thai food in Brussels' Congolese corner. (Globalization at its finest). We went for drinks at Delirium, which boasts 2000 beers. It was mostly Americans, so we lickety-split over to Celtica, an irish pub with 1 Euro beers until midnight. We did not stay out very late, as I was pretty jet-lagged from my flight.

After breakfast on Thursday, Kyle left for South Africa and I wandered Brussels for a good portion of the day. I read outside a sandwich shop and perused some shops, failing once more in my search for a leather satchel. I had dinner with Anne and Marc, and Marc and I discussed his job as well as my studies in Brussels. He said that lobbying is very peculiar in Brussels and a friend of his is currently lobbying to keep a loophole in a Belgian tax law that benefits large companies. I met Clemence and her two friends, Charlotte and Celine, and we drove to La Terrasse, an outdoor bar that is only open for one month every summer. It is one a man-made beach in the forest, and it is completely wild. (Picture the Georgetown waterfront with beach volleyball, a pool, young men and women who are not snobs, a live band and cheap booze).
Even though it rained intermittently, La Terrasse was excellent and I met a lot of new friends. With my limited French and most everybody's limited English, we were still able to find some common ground. When I say I am from New York, almost everyone is starstruck. I met a Belgian guy named Conor, a guy studying at Columbia, every new person insisted I try a new beer. My personal favorite is Duvel, because it tastes great and has an 8.5% alcohol volume.

After La Terrasse, we went to a disco and danced, literally, until the sun came up. It does not get dark in Brussels until 11:30 PM and the sunrises at around 5 AM. The disco, Clemence assured me, was the most exclusive in Brussels, but it was not filled with the types of people one would expect to find at similar clubs in the U.S. Everyone was very friendly and accommodating of my non-existent French. (Clemence says the Belgians are just like the French, except they are not assholes.) There was 1 American in the entire club, and she heard my lovely accent and we got to talking. She is a junior at South Carolina and finishing up a semester in Brussels. She told me that the club is where all young people in Brussels go and that it was a real treat to be here. We parted ways, but I left our conversation knowing that I was experiencing the real Brussels and was lucky to bypass the touristy bars and clubs.

I don't know if it was the aching hangover or the sun shining, but I woke up this morning completely in love with Brussels. I walked to the store to get a croissant and some juice and everyone was outside, smiling, shopping, chatting. It is a small city that is the capital of a large continent, and this contradiction provides me with a great jumping off point for my first trip abroad.

Tomorrow, I will take a day trip to Amsterdam to see the Van Gogh museum, the Anne Frank house, and, if I have time, the famed Red Light District. I read in my guidebook that is impolite to photograph the prostitutes, so Fennell will just have to settle for a vivid description. And maybe an audio recording.

My luggage may be seeing more of the world than I am

I just got off the phone with Aviapartner for the umpteenth time in the past 4 days. Aviapartner, (check file number BRUBA 32956 to see my bag's wonderful journey), is the company in charge of lost or misplaced baggage from British Airways flights. Because my flight was delayed coming into Heathrow, I almost missed my connection to Brussels. In the rush, my bags did not make it onto that flight. Apparently, my navy blue suit, 4 shirts, and 5 ties (described in excruciating detail to an operator at Aviapartner--the width of the pinstripes on one shirt are considered essential details) had a lovely stay in London, then said "What the hell? When are we going to ever see Milan" and decided to take that trip. After a whirlwind tour of the city, Blue Pinstriped Shirt said to Gold Tie, "We should probably go see what Conor is up to. He may need us." And Gold Tie said, "Screw that! We're in Europe. Let's party!" And party they did. Now, my garments, which I desperately need for my first meeting on Monday, are somewhere between Milan and Brussels and should be arriving tomorrow. I will be in Amsterdam for the day, and will wait with baited breath for the arrival of my clothes. Thankfully, my backpack, which has all of my day-to-day items and wardrobe, arrived safely.

Mad Props to Kyle Taylor for loaning me the essentials while I waited for my backpack to arrive.

Tuesday, June 19, 2007

a district farewell

I have tried to draft several entries regarding leaving DC and all of them lack that je ne sais quoi that true farewells are made of. In writing about my departure, I find myself overwhelmed with stories to recount, thank yous to make, and wonderful friends to acknowledge. In the breaks between packing, cleaning, and planning, I've met up with a few close friends, either at the apartment or at a favorite restaurant to share a bottle of wine, movie and book recommendations, and belly laughs one last time (for now and in this context). These are the things that farewells are made of that can't be committed fully to paper (or blog).

It's weird to hear myself say phrases like, "The past four years have been great," because I am so used to time and time again leaving- for holidays, abroad adventures, or breaks -but always, always coming back to these people and this place. I, of course will see these people again, and I am not so naive to believe that this is the be all and end all (Note: that doesn't mean I claim to be an full-fledged adult quite yet). Regardless, it's foreign to imagine this novel world where we have to make a concerted effort to phone or e-mail and make solid plans to choose and meet in a city, as opposed to making loose promises to meet at the Davenport cafe sometime after three pm.

I find my self rambling, but only because it's difficult for me to do four years in this gift of a city with my "biffles" justice with just a few paragraphs. I'm sure the clarity I am looking for will come to me my last time on the Metro -luggage all around me, $0.35 left on my SmartTrip card, and notebooks shoved into the smallest of crevices of my suitcase, unable to commit to paper those specific and special words I seek so desperately at this moment.

Friday, June 15, 2007

Breaking News

This just in. Maria just accepted a job from Random House publishers. Hooray for money!

Leaving DC/Leaving U.S.

Today is my last day in DC. With everybody cleared out of the dorms and a lot of my friends gone for the summer (or gone for good), it doesn't feel too much like the end of a chapter. I did see Bob Briggs yesterday, my academic advisor, as I was carrying a huge garbage bag full of running clothes home from AU's campus. He provided the most sentimental moment I've had so far. Pointing to my garbage bag full of shoes and clothes, he said "Wow. That must be sad. End of an era, huh?" Thanks a lot, Bob. Make me feel worse than I already do about retiring. To add to that, Bob says to me, "Well, have a good time in Brussels. I guess I'll never see you again." Real nice of you, Bob.

I will definitely miss Bob, though. He was always available to see me if I was worrying about school or just to shoot the breeze. Bob always loved to talk about track and would follow AU in the papers and on the website, www.aueagles.com. He always pushed me to get my MA and helped steer me through the admissions process and the awful AU bureaucracy. There are a lot of indifferent people at AU, but Bob is not one of them. I encourage anyone thinking about an MA in political science to go see him.

Anyway, I'm out of DC tomorrow morning on the Vamoose Bus. When I get to NY, I'll take a cab to my mom and Ron's house in Astoria. It's being renovated so I'll probably pick up a sledgehammer and bust through a wall for a few hours, and by sledgehammer I mean my karate chop.

I fly out of Kennedy on Tuesday evening and get into Brussels on Wednesday at 11 after a short layover in London. My friend Kyle Taylor, who is really outdoing Magellan at this point, will meet me at the airport and show me his city. (Kyle is working with Youth Venture, helping young people around the world create change, and not al-Qaeda change, good change. Check out his website, here.)

On the 23rd, I'll be travelling to Brugges with my friends from class and Jerry Sheridan, our man on the streets in Brussels. We start our week-long European Public Affairs and Advocacy Institute the next morning, led by Dr. James Thurber. I'm definitely looking forward to that and learning more about the EU and how advocacy differs transatlantically.

Monday, June 4, 2007

Let the blogging begin...

This blogging bit is something I have not yet tried, but I thought it would be the best way for y'all to keep track of us as we travel through Europe. I can't promise anything fantastic, but I will do my best -- I figure it's better than trying to keep up with individual emails during the trip.

We are currently in the planning stages of our trip. We booked our flights for within-Europe two weeks ago, and are booking our hostels this week.

Our plan for the trip is as follows:
June 19-June 30: Conor in Brussels
July 1: Meet in Paris
July 4: Nice
July 7: Berlin
July 11: Barcelona
July 14: Sicily
July 17: Rome
July 20: back to U.S.

If you have any suggestions (must-see monuments, delicious restaurants, perfect-cappucino cafes, etc), get in touch with us.