Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Sunday, September 28, 2008

home turf

Arrived to JFK this afternoon at 7 pm. Conor's dad graciously picked us up AND supplied us with a huge tray of baked ziti for an already-prepared dinner. We crashed, unpacked, and watched my favorite, The Wire. Wish that we were still eating squid and walking around ruins, but am happy to be back and excited to go to work tomorrow. We are both feeling rested and ready to go. Will post photo link as soon as we get them up (hopefully tomorrow or Tuesday).

Lastly, meant to mention how I noticed a difference between the Croatian spoken on the coast (Split, Dubrovnik) and inland. Inland, it sounds much more russianesque/eastern european to the ear (much harder and more noticeable ch's, z's and v'z) and on the coast, it sounds more like italian (softer, and as if it rolled off the tongue a bit easier). I couldn't quite tell if it was because of where the accent was placed on a word, but I definitely noticed a substitution for some words. Instead of "Dovi đenja"when we left a restaurant/caffe bar/tavern in Dubrovnik, we much more often heard "Adio" and even a few times "Ciao." Just an interesting note on how the same language changes depending on what area you are in and possibly the influences of surrounding countries.

okay, good night, photos soon!

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Dovi đenja Hrvatska

We have just finished our last dinner in Croatia. We ate at the restaurant (Nokturno) in Zagreb we ate at before - simple, cheap, hearty. We are here at the internet cafe and then are going to go check out a festival in the main square (in the past couple hours just walking through the squares, we've seen a man on stilts, a fire-eater and a woman preparing to tightrope walk!

Yesterday was one of our best days in Croatia. We woke up and walked about 25 minutes to the Sv. Jakov (Saint Jacob) beach. We met up with a Kayak tour guide and paddled to the island of Lokrum off the southeastern coast of Dubrovnik. When we got there, we sunbathed on the 'beach', a series of flat and jagged rocks, climbed around the rocks and went for a swim (well...the water was quite cold, so I stood on a rock up to my legs, while Conor actaully went snorkeling and cliff-jumping. To be fair, only a few other people were actually swimming, I wasn't being a huge wuss). Then we walked around the old town, packed and went to dinner at a great restaurant that served traditional Bosnian fare. [edit on Sept 28: Meant to mention that Conor had the gypsy kabob which had like five different chunks of vegetables and five different meats on the stick and I had cevapi, which is kind of like a pita with sausage in it, with a white sheep cheese and onions on the side. It was delicious and there will be photos.] Then we headed to bed. I woke up every hour, terrified we would miss the alarm to wake up for our 4 am taxi to the airport for our 6 am flight. We made it to Zagreb around 7 and to our guestroom (a different one away from the city center) around 8:30. Then we came to the main square, got cappucinos, and checked our e-mail, the Times, and talkingpointsmemo. We wandered around a bit, and then went up the hill to the bakery where we got our original Burek and ordered one last doughy meaty deliciousness. Then we went back to the guestroom and crashed for three hours. That brings us here!

and now, some Ožujusko pivo (a Zagrebačke beer) before taking a tram back to our guestroom. and then back to reality and back home to our dwelling unit, sweet, dwelling unit.


thanks for following -- m

Thursday, September 25, 2008

honestly? really?

I can't help but post this. Who would possibly vote for a ticket with this woman?
A video of Sarah Palin floundering when asked about Russia's proximity to Alaska and why that is valid as foreign policy experience: http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=4478156n

oy gevalt!
off for gelato now

oooohh plodova mora

We just had absolutely delicious seafood at the restaurant by the guest house we are staying at. Not the best we have had (Split holds that prize) but fresh, garlicky, and reasonably priced. We got the seafood platter, with prawns, mussels, shrimp, two whole fish, squid, spinach, and potatoes. With our standard vacation drink (a liter of red wine), it was a fantastic meal. Met an older couple from Wisconsin on a month long trip (the woman on her state, 'it's good country') and spoke to the restaurant owners about Croatian athletes and the difference between the appearance of Zagreb and Dubrovnik natives. Great last seafood dinner. Tomorrow, at a place called Taj Mahal, we have 7 o'clock dinner reservations for traditional Bosnian fare.

Today, we walked around the old town, went to a modest Church across from the Rector's Palace and then visited the Jesuit church here (Ron, we took pictures) which is modeled after the Gesu church in Rome (as many Jesuit churches are). Outside of the Jesuit church, there is a miniature version of Rome's Spanish steps and a market that reminded me of Campo di Fiori. Then we took a nap, because hey, it's vacation. Following, we walked the Dubrovnik city walls, which had great views of the orange-shingled roof houses and the sea. We also ran into the NY couple we met at the zonoba (tavern restaurant) in Split and watched a Split heritage parade with them. Tomorrow, we have plans to kayak and so far, no bad news about the weather from the company, so we are still on!

Until then,
m

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

some visual teasers ---

as requested, some photos of our trip so far (all on flickr when we return):

$2 dollars worth of doughy, meaty goodness (Zagreb)

muggin' in Split (on the rocky beaches in the far west)

the handsome j crew model in Split
mushroom risotto (6 dollars, what a beautiful thing)

Squid in Split (best in the world, one could say)


Hvar Town a little past sunset (using a not breathing Conor's shoulder as my tripod)

Hvar Town on Hvar Island at daybreak

a beach day!

Howdy from Dubrovnik!
We just arrived from Dubrovnik by bus and are settling in here. The bus we took was bizarre because it seemed like a coach city-to-city bus, but we quickly found out that it served as both a local bus and a longer-route bus. For instance, we stopped at least 10 times in the first hour. It was as if the local NY bus also continued after 10 stops on Broadway to DC. This wasn't simply picking up travelers and backpackers up from different places all heading to the same destintation - it was taking grandmothers from Split to the next town, then picking up some young teenagers and dropping them off one town later. It took us two and a half hours to go 60 miles. Luckily, the road to Dubrovnik runs parallel with the sea so it was beautiful the entire five hours from Split. We went through Bosnia - Hercegovina for a bit and got our passports checked twice- nothing like a little excitement.

Backtracking...
We had a great meal at Macondo in Hvar Town after I wrote my last post. We started with a lobster risotto, then had a mixed salad. For our entrees, I had fried white fish and Conor had fried squid, fish and prawns. With a good house wine, great ambience and a New York Times recommendation, this was a restaurant I was happy we made a point to go to.

Yesterday, we took an early ferry from Hvar back to Split. We got what has become our favorite Croatian failsafe lunch (burek, a doughy pocket stuffed with flavorful meat for about 2 dollars). After dropping off our bags at the guesthouse and finding that it was decently warm we went to the Bacvice beach near the harbor. It was nice to get in the sun. Afterwards, we hiked up the Marjan Peninsula, a beautiful park on the west side of Split. From the top, there were gorgeous views of Split and it was a decent two hour expedition. Last night, we walked around Diocletian's palace, had some hot chocolate and strawberry gelato and headed back to the guesthouse as if we were pensioners and not 23 year olds.

Today, we'll get a feel for Dubrovnik and in the next days, we'll walk the city walls and go kayaking.

Dovi đenja - maria

Monday, September 22, 2008

The Sweater Song / Croatian 101

Dobar Dan from Hvar!

On the island of Hvar in Hvar town for some tourism and dinner. We are staying in a small town called Stari Grad about 22 km away on the same island. We came to this island for an overnight trip from our stay in Split. Both villages are very quaint and quiet - every street here feels like the backbackbackstreets of Rome.

Split is an amazingly cool place. You have the main walkway on the water, the Riva, and behind it the old town, which is Emperor Diocletian's old palace. He was the first inhabitant, per se, of Split and built his retirement home there. It eventually became home to locals and to this day is still home to Croatians. It is unreal because there are stores and bars and homes built into this ancient wall. It would be as if Romans set up shop and home in Trajan's Market thousands of years ago and now they live there and have a Gucci store next door in the ruins. It's pretty surreal. During the interwars it was called the 'get' (ghetto) and was home to the city's poor and was a red light district. It has since turned around and is a desirable place to live again.

Last night we had an insane dinner at a hidden seafood place. Had an enthusiastic and patient waiter, who helped us make our dinner selections. We had fresh fish, squid, tomato salad, mushroom risotto, and a liter of house red. It was the most deluxe meal we have had so far and in keeping with Croatian prices, wasn't even unreasonable! We both agreed it was the best squid we have ever had and the fish was on par with what I have had made by my Palauan family, which meant it was really excellent! We met some New Yorkers, Melody and John, at the restaurant and chatted with them for about an hour.

Tomorrow, we take a ferry back to Split and stay for one more night. The next day we will take a 4.5 hour bus to Dubrovnik for two nights. Then on the 27th, we will fly from Dubrovnik to Zagreb before catching our final flight home on the 28th. Here's to hoping that Dubrovnik, which is farther South than Split is warmer. We have been in sweaters since arriving, save for a three hour period we were in shorts and a dress. We walked around during the time we could have been on the beach, not realizing it might have been our only chance to be in the beach. Today was windy in Split, and on the ferry over, and rainy in Hvar. Luckily, Croatia is a beautiful country regardless of the weather, but it would be nice to just get part of the beach vacation promised on the internet. All the websites said it would be at least 75 degrees but without all of the tourists!

And now for a little Croatian 101 --
Croatian is generally phonetic, save for the following letters-
c - pronounced like the ts in cats
č - pronounced like ch in chat
ć - pronounced like the c in cats
š - pronounced like the sh in share
j - pronounced as a y as in youth
r - always rolled
ž - like the s sound in pleasure

I practiced these sounds a bit before I left, which has helped some here, but it can be pretty trippy since often you will often have to juggle two types of c's in a word. Also, i have found that the j sound often replaces the ia sound in Italian and some English words, such as policia in Italy would be policija or galleria would be gallerija. Or as I saw Maria is Marija. Pretty interesting. We have been lucky that people here speak English since otherwise it would be quite difficult.

Signing off, time for dinner!
m

Saturday, September 20, 2008

the fashion tv

Dobar Dan from Zagreb!

We arrived yesterday noonish to the Zagreb airport. Conor's luggage, of course, as is his lot in life, got lost between Paris and Zagreb. It arrived this morning, but there were some definite harsh words and sighs in the meantime. Checked into our private room right off the main square and our wonderful host Tin (pronounced somewhere between Teen and Tin) immediately said, "Sit down, I tell you where to go in Zagreb" and proceeded to tell us the best ways to see the city. He pointed out the caffe bars (said in quick succession, caffebars) and the discos. Hence the fashion TV title of this post because he said "here, this disco is fun, in the park, half is outside, half is inside, but now it is cold so inside now, and this disco is also fun here, and this bar Hemingway is good and you need to dress up to go, for the fancy schmancy, the fashion tv," we think referring to how fashionable the people are who go there. Tin is the best kind of room-owner you can ask for - accommodating, helpful in getting conor's bags back (called the airport and gave them his number for delivery) and wise with the type of things two 23 year olds travelling in Europe want to know. He gave us the name of a great pizzeria (that serves everything) right around the corner from our room. We ate at Nokturno last night for 96 KUNAS (about 20 dollars) -----pause in the post ----hari krishna just walked by singing, I could be anywhere in the world and know that familiar bell sound ---back to it, For the equivalent of 20 bones, we got a large squid salad, mushroom risotto for c, gnochhi bolognese for me and 2 beers. my kinda meal. Went to bed at 830 and slept until 1030 this morning. Of course, found the closest cappucino to refuel and begin the day, as well as delicious fried bread called splitci (pronounced spleet-see). Got 2, went to the market, went back and got 2 more all for 12 kunas (about $2.50).

And now, my first impressions (we have been here approximately 24 hours, so these are initial)--
1) the z is where the y is on the keyboard, this makes it difficult to type things such as conor lany and tzpe.
2) smokers smoke - in the airport terminal, bars, restaurants - it reminds me how lucky we are in most U.S. cities to have the smoking be outside, at least.
3) english and non-english speakers: finding that Croatians either speak English well or not at all. For instance, at the ticket booth where we bought our bus ticket to Split for tomorrow, the older woman spoke very little english, but the younger gentleman next to her spoke it fluently.
4) it is cold here. Tin at our little apartment room said it was much warmer (80s) and has just dropped. Conor and I bought wool sweaters last night - it feels like a Kansas City early November here. Hoping that the coast is maintaining its warm weather for us. We will find out tomorrow.
5) language difficult for me to pick up. We are lucky tehre are English speakers because there aren't a lot of cognates, but this also means I will pick up less because we are not being forced to learn it. Hopefully I will pick up a few words - might ask Tin later to help us get a few words down for the rest of our trip. From the little I have been able to hear close up, it sounds like italian rolled rs, mixed with a lot of chs and shs and some vs and ys thrown in there.

Really liking the feel of Zagreb - just people hanging out, eating, marketing, shopping, enjoying life, and there is plenty of stuff to see, but not like Rome and Paris where you feel there is a checklist before you leave.

Signing out, more later - m

Saturday, August 23, 2008

plan of action

So we've decided the rough itinerary of our Croatian adventure. It will look something like this. I've included pictures to give you an idea of the different types of paradise we'll be visiting.
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18TH JOHN F KENNEDY, NEW YORK TO CHARLES DE GAULLE, PARIS
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19TH ARRIVE FROM JFK, NY TO CDG, PARIS ARRIVE FROM CHARLES DE GAULLE TO PLESO, ZAGREB, CROATIA TERMINAL 2E Stay in Zagreb

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20TH ZagrebSUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 21ST Zagreb to Split

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 22ND Ferry to Hvar
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23RD Hvar, back to Split
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24TH bus to Dubrovnik

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 25TH Dubrovnik
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 26TH Dubrovnik
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 27TH Early bus from Dubrovnik to Zagreb (about an 11 hour drive)
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 28TH PLESO, ZAGREB, CROATIA TO CHARLES DE GAULLE, PARIS, FRANCE ARRIVE FROM PLESO, ZAGREB, CROATIA TO CDG, PARIS CHARLES DE GAULLE, PARIS, FRANCE TO JOHN F KENNEDY, NEW YORK

Photo credits in order of appearance:
http://www.ecml.at/html/croatian/images/zagreb.jpg
http://www.pictureninja.com/pages/croatia/split-croatia.jpg
http://www.kompas-travel.com/dmc/slike/953Hvar.jpg
http://www.dubrovnikcroatia.biz/dubrovnik.jpg

Friday, August 1, 2008

oh my my! they are back and better than ever.

It is with great delight & joy that I announce that Conor and I are traveling internationally again in September, and will revive this old blog leading up to and during our ten days abroad. With travelers' itch after having been in the States a whole year (*eeeek*), we decided it was time to take a trip. We considered San Francisco, which quickly grew to Paris, which eventually grew to Croatia. Why not?!

We are flying from JFK through Paris to Zagreb, Croatia on September 18th & will return September 28th. We plan on staying in Zagreb the first two days, then to Split for a couple days and back to Zagreb, possibly doing another trip to either Hungary or Austria. The Kuna is friendly to our wallets, and the beaches will still be accessible without the prices being as high as they can be in early summer. Our preparation for the next few weeks includes: of course, my freakish itineraries (plural), learning basic phrases and numbers in Croatian (this doesn't look easy, I'm tellin' ya), reading guidebooks, booking hostels, and cutting back on eating out here so we can eat out there! Apparently Italian is spoken on the coast, so maybe we'll luck out there. Definitely looking forward to another adventure abroad! Could we be...addicted?!

signing off for now, but signing on again - mk